SUB-ZERO WINE BLOG

Ever since my parents took out a third mortgage to send me to college in Rome 20 years ago, I realized that the way we Americans drink wine and the way Europeans drink wine is vastly different. I could write a book on the philosophical differences that separate “us” from “them”—and my thesis would be that wine in Europe is a condiment on the table, while wine in America is a revered—and often feared—alcoholic beverage. But on a far more practical level I noticed that the temperature of the wine, both red and white, was different. Very different. In Rome, the wine we were served in the cafeteria—and just about everywhere else—was fresco, which translates as “fresh” but really means, “cool.” It was, indeed, cool that we got to drink wine with meals every day, but the temperature of the red wine in particular reminded me of the cold jug wines my grandfathers poured on the Sundays of my childhood. This confused me, because growing up I had learned that red wine drunk out-of-the-fridge cold was, in a word, wrong. How many times have you heard that red wine should be served at room temperature? And that white wine should be served ice cold?

Herein lies my theory: somewhere between the Old World and the New a catastrophic translation error took place that changed the language of wine temperature. If this sounds implausible, consider another gastronomic translation error: The Italian word ragu, which means “meat sauce,” became “gravy” in English. Technically, “gravy” is correct, but the great gravy-sauce debate could drive many a nonna to drink warm wine. Which brings us back to my point: Most of us drink wine at the wrong temperature, and for those of you who don’t even like wine, the reason could have everything to do with not liking the temperature.

What’s the big deal? I’ll tell you what the big deal is: When white wine is drunk too cold—say, just out of the fridge—the flavor is suppressed. And when red wine is drunk too warm—say at room temperature, or 72 degrees—it tastes way, way out of balance. What’s the right temperature? For whites it’s between 41 and 48 degrees; for reds, between 55 and 65. Too cold for whites is the average refrigerator temperature of 35 degrees; too warm for reds, anything over 65. If these subtle increments sound too technical to make a difference, consider how you feel with even the slightest fever. A few degrees do make all the difference.