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Wine and Food Pairing - Overrated?

Michael Green
I think wine and food pairings are comically overrated. I really do. That may be funny coming from me, considering the work I do with Gourmet magazine. But here’s why I’m such a cynic about the idea of wine and food pairing: it’s usually spoken about in absolutes, which is ridiculous. Who’s to say what wine should go with what food? I think what needs to be talked about more is what happens when you bring a wine and food together.

If you understand the basic mechanics of food – the sugars and acids – you can better understand how they’re going to change when you introduce wine into the equation. Recently, I served a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to a group I was speaking to. Half the people loved the wine because of its fresh, zingy, acidity and half didn’t like the wine for the exact same reasons. But here’s the interesting part: at this point, the first portion of food came out, which was a petite crab cake. I encouraged everyone who didn’t like the Sauvignon Blanc before to put a squeeze of lemon on the crab cake and try the wine again. Not only did their faces show surprise at how different the wine tasted, some people thought the wine was now too sweet.

Posted on Thursday, November 8, 2007 at 04:49PM by Michael Green in
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Reader Comments (4)

Well, I guess what wine and food do together is a pairing. Now, you can have good or bad pairings, so folks like to use the classic rules. But, it is what you like that matters if you are pairing for yourself. I like to do both; have what I like with a dish that can have more than one wine to compliment the meal. That way, all will be happy!
August 22, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterLorrie
Lot's of fun, and good tips, thanks.
Last week we had fun with shark. (http://acevola.blogspot.com/2006/08/wwws-which-wine-with-shark_16.html )
just for grins...
Cheers,
Alfonso Cevola
August 24, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterAlfonso Cevola
I am very interested in knowing more about wines (may be because I have no clue on what constitutes a good wine). I was very taken with your comment that pairings of food to wine were greatly overrated because I have always felt much the same way. Now I am no expert on wines (not much of a drinker for that matter) but the few times I was advised to drink a particular wine with a particular meal left me wandering what I had missed in telling. And here you are debunking that myth.

I love a sweet wine but if I were to find a semi-sweet wine that was flavorful and not too acid I may surprise myself.

As an up and coming caterer of Caribbean foods I would love to explore this area.
August 30, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterBeverley
This post is for Beverly. Try a Riesling, like Kendall-Jackson's Vintner Reserve or Chateau Ste. Michele from Washington state. Also, Smoking Loon Viognier is another one to try. Lots of fruit with a hint of orange/honeysuckle flavors. These wines are easy to like since there is some residual sugar/sweetness. Hope this helps.
September 6, 2006 | Unregistered CommenterLorrie

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