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La Dolce Vino!

Michael Green

Few countries boast an exciting range of dessert wines as Italy. While there may be bigger and more populous countries in Europe, few span so many climatic zones and encompass as much diverse terroir. Italy’s 800-mile stretch of north-south trajectory makes it a prime growing region for a huge assortment of wines.


Italy’s most famous dessert wines undoubtedly include Moscato d’Asti, Vin Santo, Brachetto d’Acqui and various Recioto and Recioto-style wines. Each is unique to a region and is produced in a diverse, yet traditional manner.


There are no better wines to consider than the elegant sweet sparklers crafted from Moscato and Brachetto grapes. Italy produces sparkling wines from more different grape varieties than any other country in the world and while the Moscato grape is grown all over the Italian continent, those from the northern town of Asti, in the Piedmont region, are among the country’s most distinguished. This semi-sweet sparkling wine often evokes peaches and apricots and has a signature musky smell. Most Asti sparklers aren’t made by the méthode champenoise, with a secondary fermentation in the bottle, but fermented in batches in tanks. Asti’s fancier cousin Moscato d’Asti is usually produced in small batches with select grapes and is often served in a regular wineglass as opposed to flutes. The fun festive light ruby fizzy, Brachetto, a favorite wine for Italians to sip on Christmas Day, is a light, aromatic grape variety grown most successfully in Italy’s Piedmont region. Brachetto d’Acqui was promoted to DOCG status in 1996 and it is often considered the light, red counterpart to Moscato d’Asti. For Moscato and Brachetto younger is better so go for the most recent vintage. Serve these wines chilled in either a champagne or white wine glass. Modest in alcohol, these sparklers are glorious with desserts and brunch items (a great alternative to a brunch mimosa and perfect with pancakes.)


If you yearn for bigger and bolder, reach for a bottle of Recioto, a wine made from dried grapes, is a specialty of the northern region of the Veneto. The most popular types are the red Recioto della Valpolicella DOC and the lesser seen white Recioto de Soave. Recioto della Valpolicella, like its dry sibling Amarone, is produced primarily with the Rondinella grape which is raisined to concentrate the grape’s sugar level in a special drying room which lends the wine an oxidized quality. It is produced in the Valpolicella DOC zone, which has both a Classico and a larger growing area, where the wines are simply called Recioto. I love these wines with blue veined cheeses, nuts and dried fruit.


Vin Santo is a classic Tuscan tradition, often consumed with cantuccini cookies dipped into it as a treat after dinner. Grapes for Vin Santo are left to dry in racks in lofts throughout the winter. The pressed juice is sealed in casks on the lees and slowly fermented.


So whatever you choose, raise a glass and celebrate the sweet life with a sweet wine. Not that’s La Dolce Vita!

Posted on Monday, February 5, 2007 at 12:00PM by Michael Green in
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Reader Comments (3)

Hi Michael,
I'm a wine writer and wine blogger exactly from...Valpolicella! (Verona, North East Italy).
So I know - and often drink! - very well the sweet Recioto.
The red Recioto di Valpolicella, as you wrote, is made from dried grapes, but not only Rondinella, also Corvina and Corvinone.
The white Recioto di Soave is from Garganega grapes.
And another Recioto does exist, for italian law: Recioto di Gambellara. It's white as Recioto di Soave, from Garganega dried grapes, but it's made in Gambellara, a village near Vicenza.

Ciao from Italy!
Lizzy
February 26, 2007 | Unregistered CommenterLizzy
I've gotten a few bottles of some nice italian wine when my wife came back from a trip to Umbria. I tend to not drink a full bottle all in one sitting so I use a wine saving device called, the ultra wine saver (www.ultrawinesaver.com), does anyone know of anything simular that will preserve the wine? I use Argon but I hear others like vacuum pumps. Any thoughts?
April 9, 2007 | Unregistered CommenterCooper Dean
Hi All, Recioto is a very good dessert wine! It is the sweet version of Amarone because it is made with the same grape varieties but the fermentation process has been stopped in the middle so it can maintain its sweet part. Usually i drink the wine of Fratelli Vogadori. I travel a lot in Italy and i buy directly the wine in the winery. They have the best recioto i have ever tasted! Does someone know this winery?
Lukas,
Germany
July 22, 2008 | Unregistered CommenterLukas

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